At Through Fine Hands, we know there are pieces of jewellery that shine bright, and pieces that can truly leave a lasting impression. But, every so often, we come across something special, something deeply emotive. Sweetheart jewellery belongs to that rare category of accessory that is inherently sentimental. They are not simply everyday accessories, they are tiny declarations of loyalty, parcels of hope, and deeply personal tokens given at moments when words simply aren’t enough.
In the wake of Remembrance Day, it feels especially important to look more closely at these iconic symbols of dedication and devotion. Sweetheart jewellery, gifted and worn widely during the First and Second World Wars, tells stories not just of conflict but of love, patience, and the emotional support that existed between the men who served their countries and the families and loved ones who waited back home. Sweetheart jewellery has held the heartbeat of our nation for over a century.
What Is Sweetheart Jewellery?
“a lady wears her badge as though it were the heartbeat of the man who serves afar”
Sweetheart jewellery, worn by wives, mothers, partners or close ones to signify connection to someone serving within the British Armed Forces (BAF). Usually, the motif was a miniature based on BAF regimental cap badges or military insignia which could be crafted in any material, from plastic to silver and enamel, or even gold. A newspaper at the start of the First World War described sweetheart brooches with the heart warming sentiment that “a lady wears her badge as though it were the heartbeat of the man who serves afar”, and this powerful phrase shows the reason why they became so treasured by women on the home front.
At a time when telegrams could deliver life changing news, long periods of no connection were normal. Small enough to be sent by mail, these beautiful pieces offered something solid and truly comforting to hold onto. They turned a person's love into something visible, something that could be pinned to a coat or blouse and carried through the long months or years of waiting for a love one to return home.
Sweetheart Jewellery in the First World War
“When I see you wearing my badge, I feel closer to home than the miles allow”
When Great Britain entered into the Great War in 1914, thousands of men left for the front with very little notice. Many had barely passed on meaningful words with the women they loved before finding themselves in BAF uniform. Against this new and harsh reality, sweetheart jewellery grew in popularity as a powerful response to the sudden separation that war suddenly demanded. Most early examples were simple and often conservative. Small silver versions of regimental badges, carefully made but not too ornate. They reflected the influence of late Victorian jewellery aesthetic that continued to exist into the early twentieth century. An aesthetic where affection and sentiment was more subdued as opposed to loud or flamboyant.
A young British soldier might press a brooch into the hand of his mother at the station, or pin one to the collar of his sweethearts blouse before stepping onto a train that would carry him away towards France and Belgium. It was simply a symbolic gesture, but one that undoubtedly resonated deeply. One soldier wrote to his wife in 1915, “When I see you wearing my badge, I feel closer to home than the miles allow,” and thousands of families must have felt the same.
Many women would wear these small tokens daily, even when their clothes were worn from rationing and hardship, and even when grief entered their lives. Some brooches would sadly end up pinned to mourning dresses as a beautiful and devastating final echo of the hope and love that would now be gone but never forgotten.
Despite their simplicity, these earlier pieces had fine levels of detail. The miniature regimental crests often portrayed every curve and emblem of their full sized counterparts, scaled down with skill that honours the craftsmanship of the jewellers of the time. Even today, these WWI brooches remain especially moving because they so clearly portray the era’s strength and its monumental personal sacrifices.
Changing Styles in the Second World War
“His badge is pinned to my coat. It is the first thing I touch when I need courage”
By the time terrible war struck again in 1939, fashion, manufacturing techniques, and the emotional meaning of jewellery had begun to change. Sweetheart jewellery from the Second World War often display a more personal character than the sweetheart jewellery that came before. Enamel, the application of paint to metal, became increasingly popular, allowing for the vibrant regimental colours and bright BAF insignias to really stand out. The designs also grew bolder, often including more interesting shapes such as hearts, wings, or stylised initials alongside the original official insignias.
The expansion of the Royal Navy and Royal Air Force also brought new iconography into the tradition. RAF sweetheart brooches, with their distinctive blue enamel wings, quickly became strong symbols of both bravery and the hope of a safe return. Naval brooches often combined the classic anchor emblem with the romantic symbolism of entwined hearts or small crown details. Their charm lay in the way they balanced duty with beautiful sentiment.
However, natural material shortages during the war meant that British jewellers had to adapt. Silver became more difficult to get ahold of which lead to inventive alternatives such as chrome, brass, or copper. In some cases, sweethearts wore brooches crafted from early plastics or backed with mother-of-pearl to create a decorative finish that didn’t require precious metals. Despite these restrictions, or even perhaps because of them, the pieces would often display a resourceful beauty and proof that even in wartime, artistry lives on.
The emotional significance of these tokens remained largely unchanged. They joined thousands of women through the everyday realities of blackout curtains, war-time ration queues and anxious nights listening to the wireless. One diary entry from the war reads, “His badge is pinned to my coat. It is the first thing I touch when I need courage,” a simple but powerful reflection of the role these brooches played.
Symbolism and Sentiment
Sweetheart jewellery is remarkable not only for its craftsmanship but also for the layers of symbolism inlayed into it. Every detail mattered greatly. From a crown placed above an emblem suggesting loyalty and honour, to wings implying protection and the hope of return. Anchors symbolised strength and resolve; a quiet, or even stubborn, hope that those at home clung on to throughout the uncertainty. And, of course, the regimental crests themselves served as a shared badge of pride between British soldiers and the ones who wore the miniatures back home.
These were not often seen simply as fashionable accessories. They were deeply important objects worn for emotional strength. They allowed the wearer to take part in a loved one’s service and to hold onto a sense of connection that distance and danger made incredibly difficult. Even today, when holding a piece of sweetheart jewellery at the Through Fine Hands office, it feels like holding a private and personal chapter of history. History filled with promises of a quick return and moments of love and courage.
Craftsmanship and the Makers Behind Them
While some sweetheart jewellery was produced by well know jewellers in Birmingham or London’s historic jewellery quarter, other pieces were handmade by the soldiers themselves. These handcrafted examples, sometimes made from scrap metal or even pieces of downed aircraft, have a powerful meaning that mass-produced pieces cannot emulate. They are truly unique special tokens both of love and of the resourcefulness made necessary by wartime life.
The materials used varied depending on the period and circumstances of their creation. Sterling silver was often a favourite and is still preferred by many collectors for its durability and craftsmanship. Enamel added colour and depth, especially during the Second World War. Sometimes gold jewellery was commissioned by wealthier families. Even when the materials were not as expensive like plastic, brass or copper, they were transformed into something cherished. The creative choices tell us as much about the era as the designs themselves.
Hallmarks and maker’s marks sometimes allow us to learn about the origins of a piece, though much was produced without any markings, often to simplify production during difficult manufacturing times. Regardless of their beginnings, each and every article holds a special story, even if we can no longer know who commissioned or wore it first.
Sweetheart Brooches After the World Wars
Although sweetheart brooches are most closely associated with the major conflicts of the twentieth century, the tradition did not stop with the end of The Second World War. Families connected to later conflicts, from the Falklands to Iraq and Afghanistan, have sometimes tried to find vintage sweetheart brooches or even commissioned modern versions as a way to maintain the same emotional connection. They may be less common today, but the meaning behind them remains just as powerful. These special pieces of jewellery continue to serve as a bridge across thousands of miles, hundreds of deployments, and the many uncertain times that follow all BAF personal across the globe.
A Legacy Worn Close to the Heart
“We will remember them”
As we reflect on Remembrance Day, sweetheart brooches remind us that the history of war is not entirely made up of grand movements and political decisions. It also exists in the precious and private moments shared between individuals. Moments of courage, hope, fear and tenderness. Sweetheart brooches capture these personal stories in miniature, blending military history with human emotion.
The familiar words “we will remember them” echo deeply each year. Yet remembrance also happens in quieter and more impactful ways. Through worn jewellery, treasured keepsakes, or a brooch pinned to a coat. These delicate tokens show how remembrance is carried not only in public ceremonies but also in the everyday details of all of our lives.
By Toby Briggs
Explore Our Collection
If you feel drawn to the history, sentiment, and craftsmanship of sweetheart jewellery, we have several incredible examples available through our shop. Each one offers a chance to hold a small but powerful piece of British history and is a reminder of the enduring bond between those who served and those who loved them.
Continue Learning
To learn more about sweetheart brooches, and for accounts and recollections like the ones found throughout this blog, we encourage you to read the incredible work of Penelope Streeter PHD.
Read Symbolic Jewels: The Military Sweetheart Brooch in Wartime Britain on the University of Sussex website here: https://sussex.figshare.com/articles/thesis/Symbolic_jewels_the_military_sweetheart_brooch_in_wartime_Britain/23301050?file=41074748